Plugging
and Spinning.
LURES are designed to mimic
the fish, which predators eat naturally, and since fish like
pike, perch, chub and zander will take virtually anything at
times, lures come in a bewildering array of colours, shapes
and sizes. They have great names too, like the Crazy Crawler
and the Creek Chub Pike. There is plenty of fun to be had building
a collection of lures to suit differing venues and conditions.
For most freshwater fishing you choose from a variety of plugs
and spinners. Plugs wobble with an upright motion though the
water, whereas spinners have a blade that rotates around an
axis creating a spinning action, as the name suggests. Thinking
about their features there are 3 kinds of plugs: minnow, crank-bait
and flat.
Most plugs are made from a single piece of painted wood, plastic
or metal and can basically be divided into three categories — surface
plugs (also known as uppers), floating divers and sinking divers.
There are used mostly for pike, perch and zander. Plugs up
to three inches (7.6cm) in length are ideal for catching perch
and chub, but for pike fishing you can use plugs up to 12 inches
(30.5cm) long.
Surface (Suspending) Plugs
Surface plugs are the most fun to use, as you can see the action
of the lure as it pops, weaves, rattles and gurgles its way
along the surface. Takes from pike in particular can be unforgettable
as the predator surges from the deeper water to take the lure
on the surface with a spectacular splash. Many plugs look nothing
like any natural food that a predator would normally take,
but the vibrations transmitted across the surface of the water
as the plug is retrieved seem to trigger their natural aggression.
The fish probably thinks it is taking a frog, water rat or
vole that is swimming on the surface.
Surface plugs are most successful when fished close to lily
beds, reed lines and over weed beds in no more than three
feet (1m) of clear water
Floating Divers
These are the most versatile of all artificial lures as
they can be fished along the surface on a slow retrieve
or made to dive beneath the surface by retrieving the line
much faster (called ‘cranking’). They have
a vane at the front and this determines the plug’s
action. Those with a large, low-angled vane will dive deeply
when cranked in, whereas those with smaller, sharply angled
vanes work at a much shallower depth. Good floating divers
to have in your collection include the Shakespeare Big
S, the Rapala Shad Rap, the Salmo Perch / Pike, the Abu
Hi-lo and the Rapala Shad Rap Shallow Runner.
Jerkbaits
These are large single and jointed lures designed to catch
big predators. Much of the action is imparted through the
skill of the angler who must use powerful tackle to cast
these heavy lures and get them working. They are available
floating, sinking or shallow diving forms, but they are
lures for advanced fisherman.
Sinking Divers
These sink when cast into the water and allow you to explore
different depths using the same lure, depending on the point
at which you start the retrieve and the speed at which you
retrieve. This pattern comes in single and jointed versions
and can be either wobbled speedily just under the surface,
or allowed to sink deeper and worked slowly along the bottom.
Examples: Cotton Cordell and Rapala Rat’l’n Trap
Spinners
Spinners tempt fish through their combination of visual attraction
and the vibrations that are transmitted into the water
as a metal blade revolves around a fixed stem. The most
famous spinners are made by Mepps, and in the smaller sizes
(00 to 1) these are fabulous perch and chub lures. Rublex,
Landa and Abu make similar spinners.
Spinnerbaits
They have been found to be very successful in attracting
pike. Their size and colour makes them highly visible and
so good choice if the water is slightly coloured up. They
are usually fitted with a large single hook rather than
a treble, and can easily be provided with a weed guard
to make them usable on very snag venues.
Spoons
In their simplest form these are just a shaped piece of metal
with a hook at one end and a swivel at the other, but they
catch plenty of fish. They wobble on the retrieve to represent
an injured fish, reflecting flashes of sunlight as they
move, making them superb for clear water venues on bright
days. Top spoons include the Eira, Blinker. The spoons
represent the most valuable bait for pike in Danube Delta.
Factors that are influencing a successful predator – fishing
session
There are many factors to take into account when you arrive
at a venue for a lure-fishing session. You need to try and
think like the predator you are targeting, so as to work
out where the fish is likely to be on that particular day,
at what depth it might be and what sort of lure will trigger
the fish into feeding. Weather, water clarity time of year,
light conditions and natural features all play a big part
in selecting the right lure. And even if you get that choice
right, you have then got to work the lure in such a way that
the fish will be tempted to take it.
Water Clarity
This is the most important factor of all to consider before
you even start fishing. With lute fishing you are relying
almost entirely on the predator's vision to get a take. It
is best to restrict your lure fishing for clearwater venues.
If you know there are big predators in a venue, which is
always coloured up, fish using dead bait.
What Colour Lure?
This depends entirely on the prevailing light conditions.
On dull days, fluorescent coloured lures, such as oranges,
greens and yellows, are the best choice. On bright days,
shiny silver, copper and bronze patterns will reflect the
light beautifully and should he your choice. Patterns painted
on the flanks of the lure can play a significant part if
you are fishing in shallow, clear water, and my favourite
lures are those which are domed with a striped green and
black pattern that imitates a small perch. However, if you
are fishing in deep water, pattern and colour are far less
important as the fish will be striking from below the lure
at what appears to them as just a black silhouette.
The Best Time for Lure Fishing
On most venues predators observe set feeding times. First
and last light are classic times, but there will also be
times during the day when the predators feed, perhaps for
only an hour. Take note of when you catch fish, and then
plan subsequent sessions to coincide with these times.
The time of year is also important. Generally speaking,
predators will be more active in summer and that is when
the best lure fishing is to be be enjoyed. However, you
can also catch fish in colder weather. In winter the predatory
fish are likely to have followed their prey into the deeper
parts of the water where it is slightly warmer, and because
the fish are not very active at this time of the year,
you will need too work your lure slow and deep.
Working the Lure
A predatory fish is constantly on the lookout for any easy
meal. To a pike, perch, chub or zander, life is all about
maximum reward for minimum effort, and the last thing they
want too do is chase after fit, agile young fish all day
long. To such fish an easy meal comes in the shape of an
injured, dying or diseased fish which cannot easily escape
capture, and that is exactly what you are trying too imitate
when you retrieve your lure. Although most lures do have
their own in-built action lure fishing is certainly not just
a case of casting our and reeling mechanically back in. You
need to vary the speed of your lure, stop and start the retrieve,
try very fast spurts followed by very slow pauses, and generally
experiment with your technique until you start getting takes.
Countdown
Sinking plugs, spinners and spoons can be worked at all depths
by using the countdown method. You simply cast in, and imagine
the lure sinking at, say, one foot (30cm) per second: Your
first few casts might be at a countdown of three seconds,
working the lure three feet (90cm) deep. You can then work
to a countdown of five (five feet 1.5m), seven (seven feet
2.lm) and so on. When you finally get a take, you may well
have found the feeding depth for that day and you may then
get one take after another. If you are prepared to take the
risk of letting the lure sink to the bottom at each swim,
you can map out any changes in depth and build up a mental
picture of what the venue is like under the water.
Natural Features
Predators like to hide in natural features, such as reeds,
weed beds, lilies and sunken trees, and to pounce on any
unsuspecting prey fish as it passes their lair. Therefore
you should try too work the lure as close as possible too
any such features that you are able to cast to.